Demonstration in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

On Friday, in the late afternoon we were in San Juan and had some trouble getting into the Old City. Streets were blocked off and there was a heavy police presence. As we came into town we heard chanting and loud amplified speeches. After a bit we took out on foot down C. Cristo towards La Forteleza, the Governor's Palace, which is actually the oldest administrative (governmental) structure in continuous use in the Americas. Indeed a demonstration in front of the mansion was in progress. It was a protest on the part of government workers' unions who are the ones that will face significant layoffs under the Governor's financial rescue plan for the economy of the country. The Governor plans to fire between 30 and 40 thousand of these workers, as the government sector in Puerto Rico is the largest employment sector and the country can no longer afford such expenditures.

We plunged into the crowd which was largely happy, many of whom had pealed off to the local bars and were walking about with cervezas. The speeches by union leaders were stemwinders and were watched by police commanders with care...


...but the demonstration was really good natured and at no time did we get a sense that the mood was uncivil.



What will happen as the Governor's plan is implemented will remain to be seen.

A cat that might grin in San Juan, Puerto Rico

On our trips to Old San Juan we have previously written about the cats. They are everywhere however some are more lordly than others. This fine kitty is usually found accross from the Cathedral lounging in a shops doorway on C. Cristo. This morning before my bongo class I was doing a walkabout with camera and spotted this cat sleeping on the hood of a Jeep. It was windy and cool (relatively) this morning and the sun's rays must have warmed yo the metal of the hood. Also possible is that it was just parked (but unlikely) and still warm from the motor. Last night I saw the same cat in about the same place crossing the street slowly. Nothing makes this cat break into a sweat. Its an alpha animal... top of the chain and all that.

I made this photograph with a 50mm lens. What caught my eye in addition to the kitty was the reflections in the smooth dark metal and of the building and roof in the windshield. Really an odd combination of perspectives... a little like Alice in Wonderland. Could this be the grin of the philosophical Cheshire Cat?

The wind was on it at Pools Beach, Puerto Rico

Well, despite the great northern swell it was a washout for surfing. The strong north wind hacked up the surf leading to basically unsurfable conditions. When I made this photograph at Pools this morning, the wind was so strong I had some difficulty steadying myself and the camera. Must of been at least 20-25 MPH. The effect of the wind is to push the waves over on themselves rather than holding the face of the wave up. So we get a lot of white water. No one was out on any of the breaks this morning. Perhaps later in the day when the onshore wind moderates and we get some off shore breeze it may improve but I don't think by much.

So the best strategy is to pull the covers over your head, snuggle closer and think about a great walk to your favorite bakery for brunch.

Weather is changing in Rincon Puerto Rico

We have begun to experience the forerunner of a significant winter swell. The front that has just pushed pass us from the north has behind it significant wind and water. Building today and through the weekend we will see dramatic waves on the northern facing surf beaches and some wrap around waves here at Lemontree Beach. We get these periodic swells several times during the winter season and when they do come they provide an opportunity to reflect on the interconnected nature of the world's weather patterns. The last substantial swell occurred here about three weeks ago. For me its a great opportunity to head down to the surfing beaches with my camera and try to capture as an image some of what surfing big waves really mean. For our Lemontree guests and other visitors it is a rare treat to really see what nature can do. Yesterday, the water was calm, comfortably swimable. Today it is rough... but tomorrow it will be surf city. The vibe on the surfing beaches is palpable and well worth the visit.

Motorcycle... in Rincon, Puerto Rico

I wanted to pop up this image of a great motorcycle, the Honda Shadow. Why, well... because its a great cruiser bike, comfortable with a great sound. Rincon is a destination, not only for visitors from the mainland and overseas but for Puerto Rican's as well. There are very active motorcycle clubs here and on the weekends you can see large groups of scooter and motorcycle enthusiasts on the roads. They will do a particular drive which may include a stop off in Rincon before heading back to their home towns. On some weekends the watering holes and eateries are adorned with these great bikes out front. Now the Lemontree is not on a main road so we do not get the motorcycle noise... but on 115, which is the main drag... its a different story.

A thousand years ago... I owned a Honda bike. Riding it felt like flying. Just you and the wind and the sound of the motor. It felt like... freedom. Occasionally I see one of these machines, which are actually beautiful and it comes back. I have seen this particular bike several times. This time I had my camera.

Reef life at Desecheo Island, Puerto Rico

Its been a bit since I have written about the diving at Desecheo Island and so I thought I would remind readers just why it is so well regarded. We have recently had a number of Lemontree guests who have booked a trip to the Island with Taino Divers, which is pretty much the only ticket out to Desecheo. Its a great day's outing for divers or snorkelers. I made this photograph after coming back from a deeper dive out at Candyland. This shot overlooks the sand channel that forms a divide between a zone of seafans and the shore line rock reefs. It was taken in about 40 feet of water. As you can see the reef was crowned with a wide variety of tropicals. Typically, these fish are a bit skittish of large bubble blowing creatures. Stealth and calm were the key for me. In truth when I am photographing the reef, a shallow dive is the best. You use less air at shallower depths, the light is better, and so you have more time to compose and see an image than if you are deeper and working hard to keep up with a tour. If you are a good diver and have a buddy who will hang out with you, some of the best opportunities for photography are right under the boat.

The music of Puerto Rico

This Saturday saw us in Old San Juan at the Conservatory. In addition to our lessons several of the music faculty put on a special production and overview of Puerto Rican music. Featured here are typical instruments. From left to right... the Guiro, a hollow and dried gourd, stroked with a wire or wooden brush, the Bongo's, the Conga, the Cuatro and the Guitar, and not seen are the cowbell or the tiple.

The concert presented the genres of typical music: Plena (a bit like our country music), Aguinaldo (like Christmas carols), Seis (originally a 17th century Spanish dance music), Vals (a bit like a waltz) and Danza (a structured stylized formal dance music). Within the types are the basic rhythms - each with a different beat. The instruments each have their own role in either establishing melody, foundational beats and supporting or filling melodies and rhythms.

The cuatro always began the musical piece as that instrument was playing the melody and then the others joined in. The guitar to play the chords corresponding to the key of the melody, the bongo and conga with traditional drum beats of the music and the guiro either following the melody or the beats, depending upon the song. Most traditional Puerto Rican music is very fast, regardless of the time (4/4 or 3/4 or 2/4) and vigorous. Listening to the melodies and beats, the excitment became contagious and soon everyone was tapping their feet or gently clapping their hands...impossible to sit still!