A last look back at the fading swell... tomorrow there will be some fun waves and a return to generally calm conditions on the south facing beaches in Rincon. The north facing ones will still be interesting but with waves about half the size of of the waves at the peak.
I first became aware of the surfing mystique through a friend who surfed out in Long Island. Up there the water is considerably colder and they use wetsuits to stay warmer. This guy was otherwise a pretty conventional lawyer but on the weekends he would head out for the surf and would come back the next week and occasionally would drop a bit of surf slang. Like: "man... that young charger took it hard and really got macked." I think the translation is that this guy who really pushes the envelope got whacked hard by a wave... took a bad spill... as in got run over by a Mack Truck. Something like that.
Check this site for a list of surf terms.
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