Late last night a new swell began to fill in here in Rincon. During the night, living by the sea, you could hear the waves building even at the Lemontree. This morning with the clean waves at least 8 to 10 feet on the north side of Rincon and light winds, the surfing was good.
I was thinking about the surf and the vibe in Rincon and I think the surf and its followers have really shaped this town. If you follow the surf and its in, you need to be on the water. If you say... "I'll wait till I finish this report"... or whatever, the wind could change and you would miss the clean roll of a great wave. So its very much a "now" kind of vibe...
When the swell is in, the coconut telegraph gets activated and the word spreads... all kinds of people but mostly younger men drop whatever they had planned to do and are in the water. It doesn't last forever and if you are going to do it... you got to have your priorities lined up. For some relationships its tough, but when both partners feel the drive its all the better. Lots of guys here come down in the winter and when its over return to their jobs elsewhere... or perhaps head out to the next place where the water is moving. The surf life and the world of responsibility and work schedules don't mix well. The surf does not run from 9 to 5 or leave town on the 5:49. Being in the surf world even for a short period of time, a week or even a long weekend leads to a kind of blessed blindness to the structure and pattern of the "real world." That's what make it a great vacation...
1 comment:
I grew up a couple hundred feet from the beach in Belmar, NJ in the '70s. In the winter you could lay down on Ocean Ave and nary a car pass. We had to hike 3 blocks "in" before we could "Trick or Treat" at a house where someone lived in the winter and would answer the door (the rest around us were closed for the summer). My mom used to take my bros. out of school. Go have them called down to the office, tell the principal they had to come home. They would get in the car and ask "what's wrong mom?"...she would say "there's waves"..LOL. It is all about "what is breaking". I followed them around the country and learned how to not be bored on the beach all day, day in day out. You grow to love the never ceasing lapping of the waves against the shore.
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